Tanzania : Photos

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Photography trip in support of Testigo Africa. www.testigoafrica.org

(Such as this view over the Tarangire River. Zoom carefully and spot the elephant.)

Haven't slept for a couple of nights and was very doubtful about going on safari today. But, the money had been spent and I felt better for some fresh air so hopped (well, hauled myself into) the 4x4 driven by Omari and we bounced our way down 125km of highway and track to Tarangire National Park.

The seed for the plan to come to Tanzania had come from a BMF friend who'd climbed Mount Kilimanjaro a couple of years ago and highly recommended it. With two weeks' holiday to take and neither girlfriend nor friends free to share it, it seemed an exciting option. Further research showed it was the short rainy season and not a recommended time to go (and talking with others since who have done it in November, it seems I made the right choice).

No problem, there was still the chance to go on safari in the north, and diving in Zanzibar. Too late to arrange it in the UK, I'd sort it on the fly.

The next thing I discovered - which I would have known if I'd actually looked into it - is that there are very few 'set' tours in the low season, and most people (i.e. couples, families, overland groups) have a dedicated driver, guide or driver guide. For me to head off for four days would have been very expensive, at least $2,000 with no one to share the costs.

So, taking all of this into account and feeling slightly shame-faced for not knowing it before I arrived, I'm taking a short cut and seeing only one park for a day. Whilst ill. Thinking about it more clearly it does seem best to share the experience with one or more loved ones anyway, so it's the right choice too.

Right. A further confession: in my brief experience today a safari is fine, fun in parts, but not a life-changing experience. I have done something a bit similar before albeit in a field in Nepal rather than close to the Serengeti. So we drove around, saw some baboons from a great distance, some other monkeys, impala, a dik dik (snigger), had my lunch stolen by a monkey, and that was about it.

There were some magnificent sights, such as an extraordinary number of elephant lumbering freely around the park, to which we got quite close; good sight of a pair of giraffe; and, possibly most magical for me, were the multiple baobab. But nothing I haven't seen on the telly.

To be fair it was the middle of the day, I was ill, I didn't stay in or near the park overnight, I was alone and couldn't share the experience, it wasn't peak animal season, I was getting sunburnt and repeatedly bitten by those FUCKING TETSE FLIES. FUCKERS! Fuckers. So it wasn't the ideal situation, and in different circumstances things may be very different. But it's only like Discovery HD without the zoom lens and sofa. (I exaggerate. Slightly.)

Despite this... well, I'm still keen to see what a 'proper' safari is like (on well paved roads please). They honeymoon, however, will definitely be in a hotel rather than a tent. Thank you.

This is not a good photo. The only redeeming feature is that it would be pointless to Photoshop this picture of me onto the East African plains. The beard has already gone during a painful, bloody operation.

When the cross and a high mileage Landcruiser are all that stand between us and a good trampling. (Trampoline in French?)

I went on a little safari and was marginally underwhelmed. Some things, however, were impressive. Right towards the end of our drive we had to pass through this herd of about a dozen elephants, fiercest looking of which was cleverly throwing earth across its back to dislodge the FUCKING TETSE FLIES. (Both the elephant's words and mine.)

We were close this time, bearing in mind this is on a camera with a semi-wide angle lens. More safari shots here.

With ghostly eyes if you zoom carefully.

(Look forward to getting back to a proper computer and fixing the exposure in these pictures, geek out.)

To the big cats.

Before the football match between Buguta and Sasenyi, we had lunch in one of the bars of Buguta. We had some chapatis and beans. This boy, was having lunch in the table in front of us, after lunch, he started to staring at us.

Not too much light to shoot, but enough to capture the colours and ambient there.
Buguta, Kasigau, Kenia. 2009

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Justo antes del partido entre el Buguta y el Sasenyi, comimos en el bar principal de Buguta. La comida fue alubias y chapatis. Este chico estaba en la mesa de enfrente, comiendo lo mismo. Cuando terminó se puso a mirarnos.

Dentro del bar no había mucha luz, pero suficiente para sacar los colores y el ambiente del lugar.
Buguta, Kasigau, Kenia. 2009


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This bouncy picture is included to show (i) that the road to the Ilboru Safari Lodge is incredibly, unendingly bumpy and (ii) despite that you can probably see I appear to be in Africa.

I tried to be both clever and curious about Arusha this afternoon, deciding to walk the two miles back to the Lodge rather than taking a taxi. It was a nice day, I had time, and I thought I knew the way.

Turns out I didn't.

I walked for at least 90 minutes along the main road, looking for the turning on the right. Everything felt correct as I recognised lots of the shops and sights from the taxi ride. It was only when I reached a previously unclimbed hill that I realised those were from the journey from the airport. And now it was getting dark, I was lost, and there wasn't a taxi in sight. At least I wasn't in Nairobi (was I?).

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Making his way across what remained of the swamp

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Requires only two complex forms and a $50 note! (Post 2002 please - we don't like fakes.)

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